Lash Whip and Bone Swords 2

So I'm mostly finished with my Tyranid Prime.  I've still got to base him and do the final Bleached Bone highlights on the shell bits on the arms (swords, etc.).  Also, the deathspitter isn't ready at all yet.  But here are some pics of him!  I'm still not sure how to highlight the bone-swords, but I'm sure I'll figure something out.

  

And yes, those are totally ancient orks in the background.

How to Lash whip and Bone sword

  Disclaimer: This post is about bone swords, so practically everything I say is something she could have said (that's what she said!), please bear with me.

A blast from the past!

  So after playing a few games using an old Broodlord model as a Tyranid Prime, I decided scything talons and rending claws were just not cutting it.  So I decided it was time to make an actual prime and to make it have some bone swords (3+ armour was just ruining my prime's effectiveness).  So first I'm gonna tell you how I made my bone swords and lash whip (I'm making all the arms magnetic so as to have more options).

  First thing I did was draw a to scale sketch (by tracing a spinefist onto an index card) of what I wanted my bone sword to look like.  Then I cut the sketch out and used it as a template for cutting two bone swords out of plasticard.
  After I had cut out my bone swords, I whittled down the hard edges (but cutting along the edge very lightly at a 45 degree angle to the flat surfaces), and I used a file to sharpen the 'blades' of the swords.
  The arms are spinefists.  I cut off the front of the fist (everything past where the dangly tubes meet the hand) and glued an armour plate from the gaunt kit to the front.  Finally, I cut a groove into the top of the fist and fitted my bone sword into the groove.  Then you're done!  Now for the lash whip.

  So here's the lash whip, I've since done some green stuff work on it, but the principle is very much the same as for the bone sword.  I've got the same arm setup (so it matches) and I've glued a green stuff whip shape to it instead of a bone sword.  I recommend rolling out the lash whip on your work bench or whatever and letting it dry, then fitting it onto the arm.

  So the other thing I've done worth talking about here is that I've magnetized all of these arms so I can have basically every option worth bothering with.  In doing so, I've discovered some stuff about magnetizing limbs that I will pass on.

Posing on the model was very important for the deathspitter

As you can see, this guy's arm is at a funny angle

  I started of course by drilling out sockets on the body for each of my magnets.  Once I'd glued the magnets in (CHECK POLARITY BEFORE GLUING!!) I stuck a magnet to each of the freshly magnetized sockets.   I feel like the posing of the arms for this guy worked out way better than it has in the past (a Carnifex and a Warjack).  The reason is that I cut out a big chunk of the shoulder of each arm, then glued it in the pose I wanted to the magnet stuck to the torso.  This occasionally results in your arm being glued to the torso or the magnets becoming glued together, don't worry too much about this, just let it dry and then cut it apart with your hobby knife once it's all set.  After gluing the arms to the magnets, I pulled them off and green stuffed new shoulders on.  With some armies I'm sure this would be more difficult, but it's kind of a breeze with Tyranids.

On to part 2!

A Hello to Arms

Lamenters

 Today I'm just posting some pictures of my lamenters.  I may at some point go into some painting details about them.

 It's a Rhino

 Sanguinary Guard

 Tactical Squad

 Captain

Death Company

 Another captain (I'm gonna repaint that power weapon, if anybody's got any suggestions for how, let me know).

I told you I'd tell you how I made a deff rolla

Unfortunately I didn't get any 'before' pics of the deff rolla because my wife had her camera (the nerve). But here's a pic of it finished and attached.

And I'll explain how that was made. You can use any cylinder of the appropriate size (I used two empty citade wash pots glued together). I wrapped some plasticard (in my case harvested from a hard card protector) around the cylinder after scoring and folding it so it would have those hard corners. The spikes are made by cutting a chunk of empty sprue into a squat pyramid. I cut a ton of said pyramids, glued them onto the rolla, and then glued a bit of sand around each one. The mounting for the rolla was made by cutting some more plasticard into the appropriate shape. I also glued some ancient rhino hatches on the sides to give it some depth. Overall, pretty easy.

I used a lot of plasticard in making this piece, but I'm too poor to afford plasticard at the moment and I improvised a lot. Here's a list of places from which to harvest plasticard:

Used gift cards/membership cards/credit card offers

Hard card protectors

Empty milk cartons

Medicine containers

Over-packaged toys

Also, cardboard will work for a lot of the same things as plasticard. The core of my battlewagon is thin corrugated cardboard. Here's some more pics of my mostly finished battlewagon cuz that's how I roll.

Battlewagon

So I got busy with school and forgot to post last week, but here's what I've been working on lately.

So what I've done here is take the current Ork Battlewagon kit and place it on top of a land raider chassis. The Land Raider had already been modified by its previous owner (and was in pretty bad condition, the spots where you can see plastic on the land raider are mostly covered in glue or carved up pretty badly... but it was free, so). The Land Raider chassis is not actually wide enough to house a Battlewagon, so I ripped the treads apart from the hull and made a new hull by cutting out a rectangle of cardboard to the correct width to support the battlewagon and wrapping it around the places where the hull would have been.

To cover the areas that were sick with glue or carved up, I spread some superglue thinly across the afflicted areas and then stuck some sand to them (as you'll see later).

You can see where that streak of superglue was dribbled down the side, now it's grime and grit!

Ah, and since I'm here anyways, I thought I'd talk about the new weathering pattern I tried on this tank. What I did was use an old frayed paintbrush to apply chaos black in a ragged pattern along the worn edges of the vehicle, and then used to same to a lesser extent to put on boltgun metal and or mithril silver.

I also want to show off my magnetized big shootas (so I can change the weaponry later if need be) but my wife apparently has her camera today, so I'll do that next week. Also, I'll show at some point how I'm making the deff-rolla for this thing.

Weathering Orks

So I started an Orks army. It's been coming together nicely so far. I just wanted to talk for a minute about weathering. I've tried a couple of different weathering techniques with these guys so far and I'll tell you which one I like best.

First:

For this one, I made some battle damage on the front plate with a modelling knife, then basecoated with scab red. Then I brought all of the non damaged parts up with blood red leaving scab red around the bullet holes. Then I just painted the bullet holes with boltgun metal. The mud on the front was done by super gluing sand all over the front of the buggy.

Second:

This time, after painting the whole tank with mechrite followed by blood red, I applied chaos black to the hard edges using a torn up piece of blister foam. Then I applied boltgun metal via the same method. I like this method better than the first and it is reeeally easy to do, but I think it looks a bit sloppy, so while it's not a bad method, I don't think I'll be using it again (although maybe I'll decide otherwise).

Third:

This time, after painting the wheel well with fancy flames, I simply painted on some chipped looking boltgun metal. This doesn't look very good at first, but after washing the model (I use devlan mud or gryphon sepia, I like to change it up from model to model) the boltgun metal kind of pops and looks nice. I like this method of weathering best of the ones I've tried so far. I've been using it on boyz shoulderpads, here's a nob I used it on.

Anyhow, the third method is pretty easy and I think looks pretty good, just make sure to give the model the wash as it improves the look greatly.

Erasing Paint

I though I'd explain something I have found to be exceptionally useful. Since I've been painting a lot of bright colors lately, I've stumbled upon a way to erase painting mistakes.

Step 1: Make a mistake when painting. This is really a problem when you get black on your yellow for example.

Step 2: Quickly rinse your brush and leave it a little bit wet.

Step 3: Apply water to the spot where you want the paint gone. The principle here is that you're going to water down the paint in that spot and then suck it up with a dry brush.

Step 4: Dry your brush (or grab a dry brush) and use it to mop up the painty water.

Step 5: If you've done this all quickly and carefully, you should no longer have paint in the affected area!